Guru Nanak's Journey to Mecca: Difference between revisions
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Latest revision as of 19:05, 24 April 2009
Guru Nanak's visit to Mecca and Baghdad and his discussions with Muslim divines etc. are based on the first Var of Bhai Gurdas. Almost all the Sakhis with the exception of a few have been constructed on the basis of historical data as referred to above and with historical imagination of one form or the other. Therefore, most of the anecdotes recorded in the Janamsakhis fall within the orbit of history.
Bhai Gurdas’s reference to Guru Nanak’s visit to Mecca, Medina and Baghdad has been corroborated by the discovery of an inscription at Baghdad in 1918 but various versions of the translations of this inscription (original supposed be in Arabic, Turkish, Ottomon Turkish or an admixture of Arabic, Persian and Turkish languages) have come to the fore.
In the Bhai Bala Janamsakhi account of the visit to Mecca-Madina is taken from the Macce di Gosht, as has been indicated in the text itself. It is stated: “full one year passed in religious dialogue with Muslim saints and the detail of the interview with Rukn-ud-Din has been given in the Gosht. Any detailed mention of this account here, is uncalled for.”
From this; it is evident that the traditions of Guru Nanak’s visit to Mecca had already been written in the form of Macce di Gosht before the writing of Janamsakhi of Bhai Mani Singh.
A reference to the route taken by Guru Nanak on his way to Mecca and Medina is made by Bhai Gurdas in his var I. In that route Mecca comes prior to Baghdad. This shows that Guru Nanak reached Mecca by the sea route. No sea route has ever been considered appropriate for going to Puri as there was ever a danger of cyclones and travel by ship in the Bay of Bengal was considered dangerous. Therefore, a land route was most frequented for going to Puri from the Bengal side. It was a popular route for travellers from Puri to travel southwards and all the important religious places of the south such as Kanchipuram, Trivanmalai and Trichnapalli, etc. fall on this route. The route from south to the north touches Bidar (Karnataka State), Nanded (Maharashtra State) and Baroch (Gujrat). If we analyse the route taken by the Hajis from Mecca to Baghdad, we learn that Caliph Harun Rashid’s wife Begum Zubaida had got a direct route especially built from Medina to Baghdad. This route has been in use from the tenth century onwards. The possibility of Guru Nanak having taken this very route cannot be ruled out.
Guru Nanak stayed with Nanaki for some time. At this time Mardana requested him that he has already travelled a lot of places and that he should now visit Mecca as well. On Mardana’s request, the Guru made up his mind to pay a visit to Mecca also. So he set out towards Pakpatan.
Shaikh Ibrahim
Guru Nanak and Mardana left Sultanpur, crossed the Sutlej in a boat
and reached Pakpatan. Although Pakpatan is a little distance away from
the river yet it was a famous ferry on the western bank of the Sutlej at the
time of Guru Nanak. Several land routes converged here. This was the
Guru’s second visit to the town. As during his last visit even now Shaikh.
The tradition of Guru Nanak sailing in a boat is current in Uch Shari/even today. There lies a small boat and it is said that Guru Nanak had boarded it. Statement by Sardar Balwanr Singh Kalra who had lived near Uch Sharif for several years. Therefore he also served as Presidenr of Sri Guru Singh Sabha, Bangkok, during the 1960s.
Ibrahim occupied the spiritual seat of Shaikh Farid. Shaikh Ibrahim was quite liberal and warm-hearted. He welcomed the Guru and lodged him in his Dargah. Guru Nanak would get up in the morning and perform kirtan. Mardana would play rebeck and the Guru would be lost in divine melody. In the 16th century, the holy men used to express their feelings in verse.451 The tradition was so strong that every such saint would either possess or remember by heart his own verses or famous verses of some other holy man. When Guru Nanak recited his own hymns, Shaikh Ibrahim also felt inspired to recite some verses.452 One day having a discourse on God with Guru Nanak, Shaikh Ibrahim recited this couplet: Says Farid : Farid, tear thy clothes to strips; assume coarse woollen wear. Assume whatever wear will bring thee near the Beloved. -Guru Granth Sahib, p. 1383 Guru Nanak replied: In the home is the wife pining for her Lord far away, Ever thinking on Him: Union with Him may soon come about, should her love be sincere. - Guru Granth Sahib, p. 594 Shaikh Ibrahim again said: Saith Farid : In youth this life-female loved not the Lord; Grown in years, she died. In the grave wails her soul, Lord! Thee I failed to meet. -Guru Granth Sahib, p. 1380
To this Guru Nanak replied: The woman of bad ways, self-complacent; Of blackened, impure mind- Should she have merit, with her Lord would she have bliss: Not the foolish female, of bad qualities, saith Nanak. -Guru Granth Sahib, p. 1088 Shaikh Ibrahim was deeply impressed and felt pleased on listening to the hymns of Guru Nanak. He asked the Guru that it needed a dagger to kill the mind. To this the Guru replied: With knife from truth made, The steel too of truth, Of indescribable workmanship; On the grindstone of the holy word sharpened, In the scabbard of good qualities sheathed- Should the sheikh with such knife be slaughtered, The blood of avarice oozes out. Such slaughtering is of the approved kind, to the Lord acceptable. Saith Nanak: Such a sacrifice, at the Divine Portal is by the Lord seen and approved. -Guru Granth Sahib, p. 956 The Shaikh felt very happy to listen to this and he handed over many couplets that lay with him.453 The Guru spent some time here and composed some stanzas (Pauris) which later on served as the first nine stanzas (Pauris) of Asa di VtIr as included in the Guru Granth Sahib.454 From Pakpatan, the Guru headed for Multan.
Hinglaj
Guru Nanak, Mardana, the Makhdum of Uch and the Makhdum of
Muhan boarded a boat from Uch. The boat, crossing via Panjnad, took
these holy men to Sakkhar through the Indus river.469 Those days the Hajis
of Multan region went to Mecca via Sakkhar and Shikarpur or through
Bolan Pass in Baluchistan.470 Makhdum Baha-ud-din and Makhdum Abdul
Wahab wanted to get down at Sakkhar and go to Mecca via Shikarpur.
They also wanted to go along with their disciples who were travelling in
separate boats. Thus, both the Makhdums got off the boat here and went
to Shikarpur.
Guru Nanak took another boat in the Indus river and travelling
through what is called Kori river in the history of Kutch, and Lakhpat
river in the Imperial Gazetteer, he reached the present city of Lakhpat Nagar471
(District Bhuj). In olden days, the Lakhpat and Kutch region formed part
of Sindh. At the time of Hieun Tsang’s visit to India, Kutch was a state of
Sindh.472 In ancient times, the river Indus and its subsidiary streams fell
into the sea after passing through Kutch. The symptoms of these can be
seen even now.473 The Arab writers record that in the 7th century two
streams, Mehran and Hakara, originated from the eastern bank of the river
Indus and passing through the region of Rann fell into the sea. Up to the
10th century, Lakhpat was a prosperous region. Thereafter its water-level
began to decline and by the 18th century, it turned into barren land.474 The
earthquake of 1819 completely destroyed and buried it under earth along
with another town Sindhri, a port town, the earth here pushed itself down
by 12-15 feet. The saltish water spread in 2000 square miles (3200 kms.)
from Sindhri. Simultaneously on an area of 600 square miles earth puffed
up in small portions of 18'-50' X 10'-15'. Thus this quake for ever ruined
Lakhpat which was earlier quite fertile for paddy, now turned into a barren
region.475
At the time of Guru Nanak, Lakhpat was called Basta Bandar. It
earned revenue worth one lakh kori (six koris were roughly equivalent to
one rupee). Since all transportation was by boats, the village came to be
called Lakhpat.476 There stands a huge gurdwara at Lakhpat in the memory
of Guru Nanak. The granthi of the gurdwara told the author that there was
earlier a small building in place of the present one. A manuscript in the
gurdwara says that the gurdwara was built in the beginning of the 19th century
and the land of Kuriani village was attached, as jagir, to it.477 Kuriani is a
town about 10-12 miles (19.01 kms) off Lakhpat. There is a very old
sarovaror pond in Kuriani which is called Nanaksar. There was earlier an
old gurdwara in Kuriani in the memory of Guru Nanak. It has since been
replaced by a new one.478
Asa Purani Devi, also called Kali Mata, has been worshipped in the
Lakhpat region for the past many centuries. An old temple dedicated to
her is situated forty miles (54 kms) east of Lakhpat. These days it is on a
pucca road that connects Bhuj and Lakhpat via Nakhtarana. There is a
tradition in Lakhpat that goddess Asa, Purani came to Lakhpat to meet
Guru Nanak and she requested that the entire world accepts your spiritual
suzerainty but let this region Kutch be spared for me. This tradition shows
that the Guru did not go into the interior of the region.479
Guru Nanak left Lakhpat and travelling through Kuriani and
Kotesvara reached the old temple of Naraina Swami that is situated on the sea shore. From here he boarded a boat and reached
the port on of Sonmiani. The port of Sonmiani was locally called Miani. It is situated 50 miles (80 kms.) west of present Karachi town and. was a famous art in Baluchistan. Before the founding of Karachi, most of the trade in Central Asia was carried on from this port via Kalat.480 It was a natural port, situated in the sea in a semi-circle of 28 miles (40.8 kms) and with a width of four miles (6.4 kms). Guru Nanak took a boat from Naraina sarovar and reached here. Hinglaj is very far off from Miani. So the Guru reached Hinglaj. An old temple, on the bank of Huglaj river and in the hills of Hinglaj, was then the principal shrine there. The Muslims called it the shrine of goddess Nani and the Hindus called it of Kali Mata Parbati.
This temple was in a high valley, of semi-circle in size. One could
reach the temple by climbing up the stairs. Guru Nanak visited this temple.
To the east of this temple and a little farther off there is a gurdwara in
memory of Guru Nanak.482 Here some sadhus met the Guru. They saw
him attired like a Haji and were astonished at this. Nobody could make
out whether he was an ascetic or a Bairagi, Vaishnava or Udasi, Hindu or
Muslim, Khatri or Brahmin, Vaishya or Sudra. Some of them came to the
Guru and asked: “O Beloved of God! What is your dress and what do you
eat? Also please let us know about yourself so that we can make out as to
what should be your diet and could serve you appropriately.” In reply to it,
the Guru uttered the following hymn483 :
Those adopting the fast of truth, holy pilgrimage, of content and
bath of illumination and meditation;
Making compassion their deity, forgiveness their rosary,
Are pre-eminent among men.
To make union with the lord the dhoti; absorption in God the ritually
pure kitchen, Love the food consumed-
Saith Nanak : Rare are such as thus are blessed.
-Guru Granth Sahib, p. 1245
When the sadhus listened to these words of the Guru, they fell at his
feet.
Mecca and Medina Leaving the temple at Hinglaj, Guru Nanak and Mardana reached the port of Son Miani. They took the sea route and reached the port of Kalhatt, which was very famous those days and which was on the other end of the Persian gulf. Travelling through Kalhatt484 (which was near Mascut) came to Aden and thence to the port of Al-Aswatt which was very famous among the Hajis and which was twelve miles (19 kms.) south of the present port of Jeddah.485 From this port, they advanced to reach Mecca.486 Mecca was a very important centre of trade even before it became a holy place for the Muslims. The famous Greek writer Ptolemy calls the town Makoraba. Originally, Mecca came into being around the Zamzam well. Sura 106 of the Quran calls it “the eternal establishment for the carvans both in summer and winter.”487 Guru Nanak stayed in Mecca for some time.
Bhai Gurdas holds that Guru Nanak first visited Mecca and thereafter went to Baghdad. The Bala and the Mani Singh Janamsakhis also support the view that Guru Nanak first visited Mecca and then Medina. There are only two routes from India to go to Meccaone: sea-route and the other land route. In the over-land travel one reached after passing through Baghdad, and Medina. Since all Janamsakhi versions agree that the Guru first visited Mecca and since Bhai Gurdas also supports this view, it can be surmised that the Guru took the sea-route.
These days only the Muslims can go to Mecca to pay obeisance at the Ka’aba. Non-Muslims
are not allowed. In the 16th century, this discrimination was not strictly implemented.
Since holy men do not generally disclose their faith to others, even non-Muslims also
visited Mecca among the Hajis. The Dabistan says that Eknath also visited Mecca.
Guru Nanak had also put on the attire of a Haji as Bhai Gurdas has said:
“The Baba then went to Mecca, donning blue robes.
He held staff in his hand, a book under his armpit, held a metal pot and a
artress.” (Bhai Gurdas Var 1, Pauri 32)
In the meanwhile, Makhdum Baha-ud-din of Multan and Makhdum Abdul Wahab who had got separated from Guru Nanak at Shikarpur also arrived. They were quite surprised to find the Guru arriving before them
During his stay at Mecca, one day Guru Nanak slept with his feet
towards the holy Ka’aba. When other Hajis got up in the morning, they
found that the Guru’s feet were towards Ka’aba. One Haji, named Jiwan,
among them went to the Guru and shook his feet saying that he had his
feet towards the abode of God. The Guru answered him that he might
shift his feet in the direction in which God did not reside. This implied
that according to Islamic faith, God is Rabul-almin. He is all-pervasive.
When he pulled the Guru’s feet to the other side, he perceived the Ka’aba
building changing direction accordingly.489
Many Hajis got together there. They developed some apprehension
and asked the Guru, “O holy man! Whether you are a Hindu or a Muslim.”
The Guru uttered the following hymn490:
Lord! Thy fear is my hemp-drug, my mind the leather pouch. Mad in this intoxication, an anchorite am 1 become. With my bowl for Thy sight I beg, that I hunger for. This ever at Thy door I beg. For Thy sight I yearn; At Thy door a beggar-pray dole out this charity to me. Saffron, flowers, musk and gold by all persons of all castes may be offered. The merit of sandalwood and God’s devotees is, To all they impart fragrance. None considers ghee and silk polluted: Such is God’s devotee, whatever his caste. These in devotion to Thy Name bow. Nanak at the door of such begs aims. - Guru Granth Sahib. p. 721
[All the Janamsakhi relate that the Makhdums were surprised to find him reaching Mecca before themselves and thus giving an impression of some miraculous feat. As already stated, Makhdums went to Mecca by land-route whereas Guru Nanak took the searoute. So it was natural that the Guru arrived in Mecca before the Makhdums because land-route takes more time as compared to the sea-route.]
The tradition of Ka’aba changing direction or place has come from Islamic texts. Faridu-
din Atar (1119-1230), Tazkara-i-Aulia (Ch. IX) says about Prophet Rabia :
“When she went to the Haj second time, she saw that the respected Ka’aba was
coming to welcome her.” It goes on to record: “Hazrat Ibrahim went to holy Mecca
reached Mecca in fourteen years, but he saw no Ka’aba there a voice came saying that it
has gone to receive an old weak holy lady.” Tazkara-i-Aulia 4 (Urdu), Ghulam Hussain
and Sons, Lahore, pp. 63-64.
When the Hajis did not get a clear answer as to whether Guru Nanak
was a Hindu or a Muslim, they again questioned him saying that he should
reveal the book he used to carry under his arm. They wanted to know
whether it was the Quran or some other text. They also desired to know
whether Hindus or Muslims were good. In response, the Guru saki that
both Hindus and Muslims would suffer without the noble deeds such as
righteousness, truth, etc. The Guru implied that those who do good are
good people.491 Listening to this, the Hajis remained silent.492
After that it is said that a dialogue took place with Pir Rukan-ud-din and Pir Patlia. Bhai Vir Singh calls the latter Pir Patnia. That implies he could be Shaikh Ibrahim of Pakpatan with whom the Guru had a dialogue at Pakpatan, but this remains unconfirmed. However,the fact that the Makhdum of Multan and Makhdum of Uch went to Mecca at the time of Guru Nanak is confirmed. The point whether Shaikh Ibrahim also went to Mecca at that time cannot be ascertained. Similarly, no information is forthcoming in respect of Rukan-ud-din.
Guru Nanak and Mardana remained in Mecca for some time. Thereafter the Guru travelled northwords and reached Medina. It is said that Guru left behind his wooden sandals in Mecca and the Makhdum of Uch took these sandals. These wooden sandals have been preserved as a relic in the shrine of Uch Sharif The real name of Medina is Al-Medina which means a city. The name Medina occurs in the Quran and its name prior to Prophet Muhammad was Yasrab. Mecca was a religious place before Muhammad and has been so after him. However, Medina became a religious place only after the death of Muhammad because it was here that Muhammad breathed his last and his tomb also exists there.493 When Guru Nanak reached Medina,494 he sat outside the town. He asked Mardana ro go and pay obeisance to the tomb of Muhammad. Mardana came back after paying his respect there and then he rook the Guru also along with him. The Guru also visited Muhammad’s tomb.495 Returning from there, he stayed in Medina for some time more. Thereafter he set out on his onward journey.
Bhai Gurdas versified this dialogue as under: The Qazis and Mullans go together and
ask about righteousness. God has enacred a huge drama and none can comprehend
it. They wanted the Guru to open his book and tell whether Hindu or Muslim is
great. Baba told the Hajis- Both of them will weep without good deeds. (Var
1 Pauri 33)
Then the Guru went on to Baghdad.
